Journal Article

The Communication Bottleneck in Knitwear Design: Analysis and Computing Solutions

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Date

2001, 2001

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Source

Computer Supported Cooperative Work (CSCW): Vol. 10, No. 1

Publisher

Springer

Abstract

Communication between different members of a designteam often poses difficulties. This paper reports onthe results of a detailed empirical study ofcommunication in over twenty British, German andItalian knitwear companies. The knitwear designprocess is shared by the designers, who plan thevisual and tactile appearance of the garments, and thetechnicians, who have to realise the garment on aknitting machine. They comprise a typical but smalldesign team whose members have different backgroundsand expertise. Knitwear design allows a detailedanalysis of the causes and effects of communicationbreakdown. Designers specify their designsinaccurately, incompletely and inconsistently;technicians interpret these specifications accordingto their previous experience of similar designs, andproduce garments very different from the designers'original intentions. Knitwear is inherently difficultto describe, as no simple and complete notationexists; and the relationship between visual appearanceand structure and technical properties of knittedfabric is subtle and complex. Designers andtechnicians have different cognitive approaches andare very different people. At the same time theinteraction between designers and technicians is badlymanaged in many companies. This paper argues thatimproving the accuracy and reliability of designers'specifications would significantly enhance the designprocess. It concludes with a description of thearchitecture of an intelligent automatic design systemthat generates technically correct designs from thedesigners' customary notations.

Description

Eckert, Claudia (2001): The Communication Bottleneck in Knitwear Design: Analysis and Computing Solutions. Computer Supported Cooperative Work (CSCW): Vol. 10, No. 1. DOI: 10.1023/A:1011280018570. Springer. PISSN: 1573-7551. pp. 29-74

Keywords

automatic design, communication, design, ethnography, knitwear, notation, team working

Citation

DOI

10.1023/A:1011280018570

URI

URI

http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1011280018570
 https://dl.eusset.eu/handle/20.500.12015/3580

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JCSCW Vol. 10 (2001)

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Referenced By

Number of citations to item: 29

  • Tian Heong Chan, Jürgen Mihm, Manuel Sosa (2021): Revisiting the Role of Collaboration in Creating Breakthrough Inventions, In: Manufacturing & Service Operations Management 5(23), doi:10.1287/msom.2019.0858
  • Claudia Eckert, Anja Maier, Chris McMahon (2005): Communication in design, In: Design process improvement, doi:10.1007/978-1-84628-061-0_10
  • Claudia Eckert (2014): Design for Values in the Fashion and Textile Industry, In: Handbook of Ethics, Values, and Technological Design, doi:10.1007/978-94-007-6994-6_37-1
  • Claudia Eckert, Martin Stacey (2021): Overconstrained and Underconstrained Creativity: Changing the Rhetoric to Negotiate the Boundaries of Design, In: The Future of Transdisciplinary Design, doi:10.1007/978-3-319-06382-9_16
  • Martijn ten Bhömer, Ruggero Canova, Eva de Laat (2018): Body Inspired Design for Knitted Body-Protection Wearables, In: Proceedings of the 2018 ACM Conference Companion Publication on Designing Interactive Systems, doi:10.1145/3197391.3205425
  • Kathryn Brownbridge (2015): Seamless Knitting and Its Application, In: Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel, doi:10.1201/b19359-10
  • Daniela K. Rosner (2012): The material practices of collaboration, In: Proceedings of the ACM 2012 conference on Computer Supported Cooperative Work, doi:10.1145/2145204.2145375
  • MARTIN STACEY (2006): Psychological challenges for the analysis of style, In: Artificial Intelligence for Engineering Design, Analysis and Manufacturing 3(20), doi:10.1017/s089006040606015x
  • Claudia Eckert, Alan Blackwell, Martin Stacey, Christopher Earl, Luke Church (2012): Sketching across design domains: Roles and formalities, In: Artificial Intelligence for Engineering Design, Analysis and Manufacturing 3(26), doi:10.1017/s0890060412000133
  • Claudia Eckert, Martin Stacey, Christopher Earl (2013): Formality in design communication, In: Artificial Intelligence for Engineering Design, Analysis and Manufacturing 2(27), doi:10.1017/s0890060413000073
  • Martijn ten Bhömer, Hai-Ning Liang, Difeng Yu (2019): Machine Learning Enhanced User Interfaces for Designing Advanced Knitwear, In: Communications in Computer and Information Science, doi:10.1007/978-3-030-23528-4_30
  • Siún Carden (2022): Patterns and Programs: Replication and Creativity in the Place-Based Knitting of Shetland and Ireland, In: TEXTILE 4(21), doi:10.1080/14759756.2022.2149081
  • C. M. Eckert, M. K. Stacey (2014): Constraints and Conditions: Drivers for Design Processes, In: An Anthology of Theories and Models of Design, doi:10.1007/978-1-4471-6338-1_19
  • Claudia Eckert (2015): Design for Values in the Fashion and Textile Industry, In: Handbook of Ethics, Values, and Technological Design, doi:10.1007/978-94-007-6970-0_37
  • Martin Stacey, Claudia Eckert (2003): Against Ambiguity, In: Computer Supported Cooperative Work (CSCW) 2(12), doi:10.1023/a:1023924110279
  • Tian Chan, Jurgen Mihm, Manuel Sosa (2017): Revisiting the Role of Collaboration in Creating Breakthrough Inventions, In: SSRN Electronic Journal, doi:10.2139/ssrn.2962348
  • Charlotte P. Lee (2007): Boundary Negotiating Artifacts: Unbinding the Routine of Boundary Objects and Embracing Chaos in Collaborative Work, In: Computer Supported Cooperative Work (CSCW) 3(16), doi:10.1007/s10606-007-9044-5
  • Richard Baskerville, Mala Kaul, Jan Pries-Heje, Veda Storey (2019): Inducing Creativity in Design Science Research, In: Lecture Notes in Computer Science, doi:10.1007/978-3-030-19504-5_1
  • Massimo Panarotto, Ola Isaksson, Idris Habbassi, Nicolas Cornu (2022): Value-Based Development Connecting Engineering and Business: A Case on Electric Space Propulsion, In: IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management 4(69), doi:10.1109/tem.2020.3029677
  • Cui-Xia Ma, Yong-Jin Liu, Hai-Yan Yang, Dong-Xing Teng, Hong-An Wang, Guo-Zhong Dai (2011): KnitSketch: A Sketch Pad for Conceptual Design of 2D Garment Patterns, In: IEEE Transactions on Automation Science and Engineering 2(8), doi:10.1109/tase.2010.2086444
  • Martin Stacey, Kristina Lauche (2005): Thinking and representing in design, In: Design process improvement, doi:10.1007/978-1-84628-061-0_9
  • Pedro Parraguez, Steven Eppinger, Anja Maier (2016): Characterizing Design Process Interfaces as Organization Networks: Insights for Engineering Systems Management, In: Systems Engineering 2(19), doi:10.1002/sys.21345
  • Claudia Eckert, P. John Clarkson (2002): Connectivity as a Key to Supporting Design, In: Artificial Intelligence in Design ’02, doi:10.1007/978-94-017-0795-4_23
  • James Wasiak, Ben Hicks, Linda Newnes, Andy Dong, Laurie Burrow (2009): Understanding engineering email: the development of a taxonomy for identifying and classifying engineering work, In: Research in Engineering Design 1(21), doi:10.1007/s00163-009-0075-4
  • Adriana Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda A. Sanders (2021): Challenges and design opportunities in prototyping seamless knitted apparel: a case study, In: International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 2(14), doi:10.1080/17543266.2021.1881170
  • Scocco Giulia Lo (2023): "Design Driven Innovation for Italian Knitwear: Research Through Design in Knitwear Manufacturing", In: Blucher Design Proceedings, doi:10.5151/ead2023-4esp-01full-05giulia-lo-scocco
  • Claudia Eckert, Martin Stacey (2003): Adaptation of Sources of Inspiration in Knitwear Design, In: Creativity Research Journal 4(15), doi:10.1207/s15326934crj1504_5
  • John Clarkson (2005): Engineering Design Centre, University of Cambridge, In: Design process improvement, doi:10.1007/978-1-84628-061-0_22
  • Claudia Eckert, Jean-François Boujut (2003): The Role of Objects in Design Co-Operation: Communication through Physical or Virtual Objects, In: Computer Supported Cooperative Work (CSCW) 2(12), doi:10.1023/a:1023954726209
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